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CLIMBING, MOUNTAINEERING & HILLWALKING

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ZLAGBOARD PRO REVIEW

OVERVIEW

The Zlagboard Pro is not just any fingerboard. Paired with its app, it is your trusting I-will-never-let-you-down training partner, coach and hopefully motivator all at the same time. Pushing you for those extra gains. Each plan will suggest what holds to use, hold long to hang, amount of reps, sets, time of rest, etc… All you do is attach your phone, press start, and follow the instructions. Whether you are new to climbing, or a weathered climber, there is a plan for everyone. Which means it takes the thinking out of it.

We provide SPORT CLIMBING COURSES and CLIMBING COACHING, we even run CLIMBING PSYCHOLOGY WORKSHOPS, and have published a book on CLIMBING PSYCHOLOGY.

 

SPECIFICATIONS

  • The Zlagboard is the first device that allows you to follow a structured training schedule in an uncomplicated way.
  • Pro Plans: The Pro Plans have been developed specifically for progressive workout, leading you through an intensive training over a period of one to three months. The program designers, like Patxi Usobiaga (Patxitraining.com), Patrick and Dicki (Gimme Kraft) are professional trainers. Many world class climbers trust in their know-how and experience.
  • Workouts: The workouts are single training units that have been designed specifically for each board. They demand your full physical effort and are ideal for burning off energy from time to time. The workout sessions are an optimal addition to regular climbing on rock or in the gym.
  • Custom Plans: The custom plan feature allows you to design individual workouts. You can define the training series yourself, choosing holds, hang and pause times as well as exercice repetitions and rest times. Up to 20 workouts can be saved, retrieved and edited.
  • Jugs, Slopers (10/35°), Crimps/Pockets (10-45mm)
  • Alder wood board on steel frame
  • 70x16x6cm
  • Weight: 7kg

 

THE SETUP

So, firstly you need to find an appropriate place to set up the Zlagboard Pro at home, or your training space.  Making sure that wherever you place it, that the substrate you attach it to can support your weight, with potentially additional weight.

 

Once the Zlagboard Pro has been set up, if used in conjunction with the Zlagboard app, it will ask you to attach you phone to the silicone phone holder.  Start the process, and follow the instructions on the app.  It will work out the level of the hang board, and the pivot level of when you hang on it.

The Zlagboard Pro fingerboard is mounted on a steel frame, and moves down by about 1cm when weighted.  The mechanism inside in turn tilts the phone holder.

 

HOLDS AVAILABLE

Please see the diagram below, here you will clearly see what holds there are available on the Zlagboard Pro.  From big jugs and slopers, to 2, 3 and 4 finger sized pockets.

Personally, I will always choose a wooden training board over a plastic/resin one, as it is more finger friendly.  The Zlagboard Pro is made from alder.  Although a soft wood, it has a long life and durability.

 

The feel of the Zlagboard Pro fingerboard feels kind to the skin.  Like most fingerboards, they need a little wearing in before you get the best performance on them.

 

If I had to be very critical, some of the pockets could do with being a little more rounded off, to be more finger friendly.  As opposed to being cut in at almost right angle.  Again, this is a minor issue.

 

The Zlagboard Pro has the right amount of holds available.  Again, this is down to personal choice as well.  Some people may prefer, steeper slopers, and possibly some one-finger pockets.  But no fingerboard has it all.

 

 

USE OF ZLAGOARD PRO AND APP

Before starting any of the training plans within the app, it will ask you to do as many pull ups, and a duration hang on the 20mm edges.  Make sure you are feeling rested before trying this.  Once completed the app will suggest you what level of training plans you should follow.  Personally, I am not so good at doing pull ups, and having climbing for a fair few years, I jumped straight into the deep end.

The design of the board is very clever.  When you weight the hangboard, the mechanism inside attached to springs, will lower the board.  This in turn tilts your phone.  So, the counter knows when to start, and stop.  Hence, giving you a precise workout time, and never any inaccuracies, or cheating.

 

The app also tracks your training progression over the weeks, and holds the information on the completion of the tasks.

THE TRAINING PLANS

The training plans are very clearly laid out.  Each stating its difficulty level, length of the plan duration, the coach which compiled the training plan, and the focus of the plan.  The programs will suggest which will be your workout days, which I suggest you follow for the best results.  But if you do happen to miss a day, you can always do your session the following day.

Each plan will suggest what holds to use, hold long to hang, amount of reps, sets, time of rest, etc… All you do is attach your phone, press start, and follow the instructions.

 

Whether you are new to climbing, or a weathered climber, there is a plan for everyone.  Which means it takes the thinking out of it.

 

If, however, you like to be in charge of exactly what you do, there is the option where you can customise your own workout.  A little time consuming at first, but once the info has been entered it is there for you to follow at your fingertips.

 

COACHES

The training plans available on the Zlagboard app are compiled by 4 coaches.  These are Gimme Kraft, Patxi Usobiaga, Ingo Filzwieser, and Duncan Brown.  They all have a long history in coaching climbing, and some personal achievements.

Ingo, who is the national team coach for the Austrian climbing team.  Duncan, who is the national coach for the Australian climbing team.  Patxi, who is a climbing legend, with some hard ascents to his name.  And currently training Adam Ondra. And finally, Dicki and Patrick from Gimmekraft who have an array of professionals they have coached over the years.

 

Meaning you are in good hands.

 

 

SPECIFICITY OF TRAINING

Regarding the training plans available, you can focus your efforts on:

  • Finger strength
  • Lock off power
  • Endurance
  • Power endurance

 

The benefit of the training plans is that they have been put together, with progressive resistance.  Concentrating on building up strength and resistance in the first part.  And building up progressively over time.

 

PROS

  • Soft on your skin
  • Training plans in combination with Zlagboard app
  • Variety of training plans available
  • Variety of holds
  • Big jugs for pull ups
  • Zlagboard competition
  • Custom workouts

 

CONS

  • Expensive
  • Some people may prefer some of the holds being rounded off at the bottom, to be more finger friendly

CONCLUSION

The Zlagboard Pro is a beautifully crafted, unique fingerboard.  Paired with the app, they make a must have addition to your training regime.  Especially now that we are all stuck indoors for a while, eh.

 

If you are interested in purchasing the Zlagboard Pro, or its smaller brother the Zlagboard Evo, buy them straight from their website (link below).

 

ZLAGBOARD PRO

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