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Edelrid Eddy Review

Overview

I have been using the Edelrid Eddy assisted braking belay device for the last month, on and off. And I have been impressed with the ease of use, from the word go.

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Unlike most other assisted braking devices on the market, the Edelrid Eddy is used almost like an ATC.  By this I mean the lead line or live rope comes out of the front of the device, and the dead rope is closest to you.  This makes the transfer from an ATC to this much easier.  Also, to me this makes much more sense when paying out rope and taking in slack.

It is slightly on the heavy side, but it is a quality piece of kit.  Edelrid have used hard wearing materials, hence its weight.  As a result this device will outlast most other devices on the market, so its price seems irrelevant.

The Edelrid Eddy’s design is brilliant, the edges where the rope runs, are curved, and inside the barrel are a few bits made of plastic, all to reduce the wear on your rope. And with ropes being very pricey, and your life hanging on them, every little helps.

When paying out slack fast, it is not very sensitive, and will generally not get stuck.  When you are belaying your friend on the crux of a route, and he/she is nervously pulling in slack fast to click their next quickdraw.  The Eddy seems to know the difference between paying out slack for your climber, and a fall.

If on the other hand it does get stuck, all you do is pull back on the dead rope, to unstick the cam, then feed out the live rope again.  Very easy device to use.  Unlike the Petzl GriGri, where it feels that sometimes you need to have a hand or a thumb on the cam, to unlock it, to be able to feed rope again.  Very clever by Edlerid, I say.

The lowering handle on the Edelrid Eddy, is large enough to get your hand on, and comfortably lower the climber.  Also, Edelrid have decided to make the handle of metal, again making this a more robust device. So a larger and stronger handle, make lowering just that bit easier.

Edelrid have also incorporated an anti-panic function on the lowering.  This means that if you lower too quickly, the device will stop.  All you then do is release the handle, and then you have two options to lower the climber.  Either by pressing the handle forward slightly.  Or by resetting the handle to its original position, and starting again.  I do like this function, and again, is nowhere near as sensitive as the Petzl GriGri +, which can be frustrating to use.

It works with ropes between 9mm – 11mm, so a great range.  We have used 10mm – 10.2mm  ropes throughout the review.

Pros

  • Easy to use
  • Works like an ATC/barrel plate
  • Rope right way around
  • The design of the device is softer on your rope than some of its competitors
  • Very easy brake system
  • Very easy to pay out rope, unlike the GriGri
  • Big handle, used for lowering
  • Anti-panic lowering handle, not sensitive like the GriGri+
  • Internal device bits rope runs on are made of plastic, adding to the longevity of your rope

 

Cons

  • It is on the heavy side
  • Maybe pricey, but the quality that has gone into its design, it will easily outlast some of its competitors

 

Conclusion

A perfect partner for all sport climbing ventures and venues.  A robust, and ingenious design, and very easy to use from the word go.