Top 5 VS climbs at Wintours Leap
Here is a list of my top 5 VS climbs at Wintours Leap:
- Freedom VS 4c
- The Angel’s Girdle VS 5a
- Swallow’s Nest VS 4c
- African Killer Bee VS 4c
- Nibelheim VS 4c
Wintours Leap is a limestone cliff, towering over and almost kissing the river Wye. Just 2 miles north of Chepstow, renowned for its steep and overhanging cliffs. The climbing tends to be more technical, and delicate, with the choice of lots of multi-pitch routes.
The area boasts of more than 300 routes. If you are new to the cliff, route finding can be tricky at times, and please go careful on the climbs. This particular limestone is prone to erosion, so please make sure that whatever you hold is secure, and same goes for gear placements.
Here are my top 5 VS climbs at Wintours Leap, in no particular order.
Freedom is a 2-pitch route on fly wall, and one of Wintours Leap’s classic must-do routes. Graded at VS 4c. The protection is plentiful on the second pitch, with an exciting and exposed hand traverse, that leads to the final corner.
Angel’s Girdle is an amazing 4-pitch traverse, across the North Wall area of Wintours Leap. Coming in at a steep VS 5a, the route even has some mandatory downclimbing involved. The route has many pegs in place. Just check the state of them, and do not blindly trust them. An exhilarating route, with stunning views, and engrossing climbing. The sting is definitely in its tail. With a big pitch to finish, some tricky moves, and a mantelshelf to the finish.
Swallow’s Nest is a tricky to protect 2-pitch corner on Fly Wall at Wintours Leap. The climbing is sustained, with a beautiful hero’s finish over the top. And a stunning view over the river Wye.
African Killer Bee is a 30m single pitch VS 4c on Fly Wall. Following a crack line, and a few ledges. You end up in an exposed position, with good gear and a very exciting mantel. Before a wide groove leads you to its summit.
Neibelheim is an exciting 4-pitch route on North Wall at Wintours Leap. The route has everything Wintours Leap could throw at you. Tree belays; good gear; some bold climbing, especially higher up; a little slab climbing; and some corner climbing; and even overhangs, with big holds. What more could you ask for.
Here are my top 5 VS climbs at Wintours Leap. If you would like some advice on any of the above routes, or others at Wintours Leap, please feel free to get in contact.
Or contact us if you want to go climbing at Wintours Leap.
If you feel you need help with your head game in climbing
If you feel your head game is preventing you from progressing in climbing, whether it is the fear of falling, the fear of failure or a negative mindset, we have a book available which can help you.