Top 5 VS climbs at Avon Gorge
Here I have listed my top 5 VS climbs at Avon Gorge:
- Piton Route VS 4C
- Unknown Wall VS 4C
- Gronk VS 4C
- Giants Cave Buttress VS 4C
- Clarion VS 4C
Britain’s unique city crag, with very easy access. Situated along the A4, on the edge of the Avon river, and within the Bristol city boundaries.
Avon Gorge is quarried limestone, and has a selection of climbing available, from a little sport climbing, and a few single pitch trad climbing routes, to the majority, which is multi pitch trad climbing. The protection can be poor at times, so you need a real head to push on through.
Avon Gorge is also home to a few alpine like routes, if you are looking to hone in those alpine climbing skills. The limestone cliffs tower over the river Avon. With sometimes poor protection and thin feet, climbing at Avon Gorge can make for exciting climbing.
Avon gorge boast of more than 800 routes. With some of its routes topping out near the ice cream van. A classic and welcomed top out. Usually at the top of Sea Walls and Suspension Bridge Wall.
Because of the road being so close to the crag, communication can be difficult, so walkie talkies are very useful.
Here are my top 5 VS climbs at Avon Gorge, in no particular order.
Piton Route a stunning VS 4C graded route, which start at the top of Exhibition Slab, and follows a leftward slanting groove up the Central Buttress. The route is exceptional, with some very exciting and exposed climbing. A definite must-do route. Personally I’m not sure where the name came from, as a route to the right, called Grand Central Station would be more suitable to the name Piton Route.
Unknown Wall a 2-pitch route VS 4C, weaving its way up the Blik Area. With some exciting and exposed climbing, especially under the overhang on pitch 2. This is one of Avon Gorge’s VS classics. The best thing about this route, is that there is an ice cream top out. A welcomed sight after an adrenaline fuelled climb.
Gronk is VS 4C, which weaves its way up Sea Walls. With some stunning and exposed climbing. This climb entails a lot of variety, from a short crack, to some delicate slab climbing, and some exposed traversing on pitch 3. What an adventure!
Giant Cave Buttress is a route on the Upper Amphitheatre Walls by the Clifton Suspension Bridge. The route meanders past the cave Gallery, where onlookers, unfamiliar with climbing, are in ore of these vertical thrill seekers. The route is graded at VS 4C, an exquisite masterpiece, with a brilliant finale. An Avon Gorge classic and a must-do.
Clarion is a popular route, graded at VS 4C, up Morning Slab to Dinner Ledge. A 2-pitch route, with all of the excitement in the first pitch. Especially the moves over the overhang.
Here are my top 5 VS climbs at Avon Gorge. If you would like some advice on any of the above routes, or others at Avon Gorge, please feel free to get in contact. We would be happy to help.
If you feel you need help with your head game in climbing
If you feel your head game is preventing you from progressing in climbing, whether it is the fear of falling, the fear of failure or a negative mindset, we have a book available which can help you.