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Top 5 low to mid-grade climbs at Avon Gorge

Top 5 low to mid-grade climbs at Avon Gorge

Here I have listed my top 5 low to mid-grade climbs at Avon Gorge:

  • Morpheus Vdiff
  • Sinister HS 4b
  • The Arete S 4a
  • Fossible HS 4c
  • Surprising Conclusion S 4a

 

Britain’s unique city crag, with very easy access.  Situated along the A4, on the edge of the Avon river, and within the Bristol city boundaries.

 

Avon Gorge is quarried limestone, and has a selection of climbing available, from a little sport climbing, and a few single pitch trad climbing routes, to the majority, which is multi pitch trad climbing.  The protection can be poor at times, so you need a real head to push on through.

 

Avon Gorge is also home to a few alpine like routes, if you are looking to hone in those alpine climbing skills.  The limestone cliffs tower over the river Avon.  With sometimes poor protection and thin feet, climbing at Avon Gorge can make for exciting climbing.

 

Avon gorge boast of more than 800 routes.  With some of its routes topping out near the ice cream van.  A classic and welcomed top out.  Usually at the top of Sea Walls and Suspension Bridge Wall.

 

Because of the road being so close to the crag, communication can be difficult, so walkie talkies are very useful.

 

Here are my top 5 low to mid-grade climbs at Avon Gorge, in no particular order.

 

Morpheus is a classic HVD (Hard VDiff) route on Sea Walls, with a cheeky polished few moves on pitch 3. An amazingly adventurous route, with some very exciting climbing and stunning views.

 

Sinister a 3 pitch twisting and wondering route up Morning Slab up to Lunchtime Ledge, graded at HS 4b.  Where the difficulties are only short lived.  A very pleasant and enjoyable route.

 

The Arête is a 3-pitch route up the arête of Morning Slab.  Graded at S 4a (4b for the vertically challenged – short).  The difficulties on pitch 3 can be bypassed, but it is a one move wonder.  One of the best route for its grade.

 

Fossible is a wondering route across the lower part of Amphitheatre Wall, graded at HS with a 4c move on the second pitch.  With a gymnastic style move higher up.  The first pitch has spaced out protection, so a cool head is needed.

 

Surprising Conclusion is a one pitch route, graded at S 4a.  The only route on the list that requires an abseil to get to the start.  It is always a little more exciting to start at the top.  An airy route, which boasts good rock an protection.  A definite must do.

 

Here are my top 5 low to mid-grade climbs at Avon Gorge.  If you would like some advice on any of the above routes, or others at Avon Gorge, please feel free to get in contact.  We would be happy to help.

 

Or contact us if you want to go climbing at Avon Gorge.

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