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Top 5 HVS climbs at Wintours Leap

Top 5 HVS climbs at Wintours Leap

Here is a list of my top 5 HVS climbs at Wintours Leap:

  • Cheetah HVS 5a
  • Puma HVS 5a
  • The Angel’s Eye HVS 5b
  • Guytha HVS 5a
  • The Burning Giraffe HVS 5a

 

Wintours Leap is a limestone cliff, towering over and almost kissing the river Wye.  Just 2 miles north of Chepstow, renowned for its steep and overhanging cliffs.  The climbing tends to be more technical, and delicate, with the choice of lots of multi-pitch routes.

 

Wintours Leap boasts of more than 300 routes.  If you are new to the cliff, route finding can be tricky at times, and please go careful on the climbs.  This particular limestone is prone to erosion, so please make sure that whatever you hold is secure, and same goes for gear placements.

 

Here are my top 5 HVS climbs at Wintours Leap, in no particular order.

 

Cheetah is a magnificent 3-pitch HVS up Far South Bay at Wintour’s Leap.  But it is all about the first 2 pitches.  Graded at 5a, it has some exposed moves, some exciting in-situ pegs to clip.  Some very exciting moves, leading to some bolder climbing higher up.

 

Puma is a superb HVS, just across from Cheetah.  Also situated in Far South Bay, it takes the first pitch of Guytha, then an exciting finishing pitch up the rib higher up.  With a few moments where you are holding your breath.

 

The Angel’s Eye is a 63m 3-pitch HVS up on North Wall.  The difficulties are all contained within the start, where pulling hard and laybacking are a must.  The climb is very atmospheric, and follows a chimney, before moving onto an overhang with good holds.

 

Guytha is a classic route, sandwiched between Cheetah and Puma.  Providing some pegs as protection, following the corner higher up, and try avoiding the hanging flake.  But try avoiding the peg higher up as a foothold, you will only be fooling yourself.

 

The Burning Giraffe is a 117m, yes, a 117m 5-pitch HVS on Great Overhanging Wall (or GO Wall) at Wintour’s Leap.  With three pitches out of 5, graded at 5a, it makes for an exciting day out.  Some high level traversing, with delicate feet, add to the atmosphere and exposure.  A definite must-do route.

 

Here are my top 5 HVS climbs at Wintours Leap.  If you would like some advice on any of the above routes, or others at Wintours Leap, please feel free to get in contact.  We would be happy to help.

 

Or contact us if you want to go climbing at Wintours Leap.

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