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Top 5 HVS climbs at Symonds Yat

Top 5 HVS climbs at Symonds Yat


  • Red Rose Speedway HVS 5a
  • White Heart (2) HVS 5b
  • Orange Wall HVS 5a
  • The Russian HVS 5a
  • Sickle HVS 5a


Symonds Yat, situated in the heart of the Forest of Dean, and overlooks the river Wye. It is a village in the Wye Valley, and straddles Gloucestershire and Herefordshire.  And is only a few miles from Monmouthshire and the Welsh border.


Symonds Yat is a very popular climbing venue.  Most of the climbs are single pitch, and easily accessible from above and below.  It is renowned for its weathered juggier limestone.  So, if you are a strong climber, that prefers bigger moves, with the occasional questionable protection, this would be your playground.


Symonds Yat is home to some incredible lines.   You do need a good eye for gear placements at times, and sometimes a head for pushing on when fear tries to prevent you from progressing.


Here are my top 5 HVS climbs at Symonds Yat, in no particular order.


Red Rose Speedway is a Symonds Yat classic.  A steep, technical and well protectable crack climb, one of the best routes at Symonds Yat.  It is sustained in places, with opportunities for those forearms to relax, with good footwork.


White Heart (2) is at the top of its grade, at HVS 5b.  The difficulties can be avoided higher up, by traversing left.  But then you are only cheating yourself.  Short, sweet and with a sting it its tail.


Orange Wall another classic on the Pinnacle.   It is the route Whitt, with a variation higher up, where you traverse out below a bulging arete, and then climb it.  A very exposed position, exhilarating and definitely worth a visit.


The Russian is tough for its grade, care needs to be taken with gear placements, hence mentally it can feel harder than it is.  A sustained and mentally tiring route, and a relief once topped out.


Sickle is a bit of a wondering route, with a hard start and an exciting finish.  Excellent holds throughout, and some pumpy moves along a horizontal break.


Here are my top 5 HVS routes at Symonds Yat.  If you would like some advice on any of the above routes, or others at Symonds Yat, please feel free to get in contact.  We would be happy to help.


Or contact us if you want to go climbing at Symonds Yat.

Copyright J Cowley

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