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Edelrid Ohm Review

Overview

What an amazing bit of kit. No more weight bags, no more ground anchors. The Edelrid Ohm is the only device of its kind on the market. A device, which looks like a quickdraw, and it is a quickdraw, but its design is ingenious.

People On Mountain

The Edelrid Ohm creates extra friction, allowing a much lighter belayer to belay a much heavier climber comfortably, without being pulled up to, or sometimes it may feel pulled through the first quickdraw.

I used this device on several occasions indoors and outdoors on sport routes (wouldn’t recommend using it on a trad route), putting it to the test.  Where the belayer and climber have been of around 40Kg in weight difference (that is 6.3 stone), even two occasions where the climber has been up to 50Kg in weight difference (not recommended by the manufacturer, so please do not try this).

I obviously wanted to test it out.  It is incredible.  There is very little movement of the belayer, with a falling climber, on all occasions.  From the small fall, to the great big wipper.

It is very easy to use.  The climber attaches the Edelrid Ohm, loaded with the rope, to his/her harness, clips it on the first bolt, and just climbs as usual.  There are no moving parts, and it is a very simple design, where the rope runs through the Ohm.

As you can see in the picture below, no moving parts, and a v-groove which creates extra friction.  When lowering the climber, again it creates friction in the system.  Making it a more controlled system for the lighter belayer, and it feels safer for the heavier climber.

Once the route has been climbed, pulling the rope through is very easy, and no friction is felt.  The only issue I could come up with is that it is a little awkward (not very) retrieving the Ohm when being lowered on an outdoor sports route.  Once you take the Ohm away, there is no friction, and the belayer may be pulled up slightly when taking it out of the system.

We thought there may be issues with the Ohm, trying to reload it whilst hanging on the first clip from the previous climb, but again, this was very easy to do.  Just undo the mechanism, with the safety catch, and reload the rope.  If you are looking to climb something super hard, it is worth having it loaded on your harness, before starting to climb.

Another benefit of the Edelrid Ohm is that it can take ropes between 8.9mm and 11mm, which means it will work with a vast array of ropes.  We tested it with a 10mm diameter rope.

Pros

  • Innovative
  • Quality materials used
  • Easy to use
  • Now the heavier climber can feel more comfortable with the lighter belayer
  • No use for weight bags or ground anchors
  • For use on sport climbs inside and outside
  • Beautiful design
  • Will take ropes between 8.9mm and 11mm

Cons

  • Expensive
  • Heavy

Conclusion

An innovative piece of engineering and design by Edelrid.  Simple, effective, very safe, and the only one of its kind.